Egypt, Kasfareit, Great Bitter Lake, Suez: 1-6 Mar 1946

5-6 March 1946
Kasfareit to Port Said to Suez


Life list now 178 species

>>Destination known at last!

On 4 March I learned that my Middle East posting was to Aden and that I and others going there would leave by ship from Port Said the following day. "During the morning of 5 March, I went by train from Kasfareit to Port Said, embarked on the "Capetown Castle" and sailed for Aden in the evening. >>>

From the train I saw many Buff-backed Herons [Cattle Egrets], Black Kites, one Common Snipe, c.10 Pied Kingfishers (one of which flew parallel with and kept up with the train at c. 20 mph for 50-100 yds. Their note: a chattering shrill scream), several Sand Martins [Bank Swallow](Riparia riparia shelleyi?), 5 [Northern] Lapwings (Vanellus vanellus) (with two Spur-winged Plovers and another Lapwing later, one Kestrel and some Hoopoes. In the harbour at Port Said, I saw no different birds from those on 22 February.

The night of 5-6 March was spent passing through the Suez Canal and we arrived at Suez at 0700h. On the mud at the end of the Canal and on the east side were 5 [Eurasian] Oystercatchers (presumably Haematopus o. ostralegus) and 2 either Whimbrel or Curlew (bill seemed shortish). In Suez harbour were Black-headed Gulls, Yellow-legged Gulls and Lesser Black-backed Gulls. I noted the relative numbers of these four forms of gull at 100:5:13:2. We left Suez at c. 0900h and entered the Red Sea in the evening. Outside the harbour I found the approximate proportion of British to Scandinavian Lesser Black-backed Gulls to be 50:50."

>>1-3 March 1946
Great Bitter Lake and vicinity

Each day I walked from the camp to and along the western side of the Great Bitter Lake. Much of the area was cultivated (irrigated), also with occasional villages. Kasfareit was near the modern village of Fanara (find by viewing larger map).>>>


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“There were House Sparrows in all habited areas. On 1 March, just outside the camp I saw a ♂ Stonechat (Saxicola torquata rubicola) of the darker European form and 2 or 3 more (1 ♂ and/or 1 ad. ♂ and 1 imm. ♂) near a small settlement at the south end of the lake. On 2 March one Stonechat was seen to have a very dark, apparently black back. On 1 March I saw my first Bluethroat* (Luscinia svecica) with a red spot in a garden near the camp.

The only Hoopoes* (Upupa epops) seen were on 2 March. Presumably they were of the Egyptian form, major. They were in a garden and at a fair distance so I could see little detail. On this day too, I observed an unknown warbler that was probably the Graceful Warbler [Prinia] (Prinia gracilis]. It had a monotonous song: “slenk-slenk-slenk-..." There was also a different effort from the same bird "chik-o chik-o chik-o... " with the second note lower and shorter than the first. I saw this bird once or twice - it was generally grey-brown with a long tail.

In the fields were several Spur-winged Plovers* (Vanellus spinosus), which greatly puzzled me till I was able to identify them from Greave’s “Sixty Common Birds of the Nile Delta”. [This book was originally published in 1936 in Cairo but the copy I was able to borrow had been published in 1944 by the British Government (Stationery Office) as a Service Edition, intended for use by M.E.F. (Middle East Forces), presumably to provide some diversion for British troops stationed in Egypt. It was available in the Camp Library. I located the one illustrated below via the Internet and bought it in 2010.]

During the whole of my walk, Crested Larks and White Wagtails were visible. The chief note of the former was a whistling “pweep” or “peep-eep”. Several times they broke into full song, not unlike that of a Skylark but much less varied. I think there were also a few smaller larks more resembling a Woodlark in appearance.

In a flooded field, feeding among rice(?), were c. 40 [Cattle Egrets]. These birds proclaimed their identity by the very light buff markings on the head. Back and mantle noticeably very light grey instead of white. There were one or two beside the lake and many in another field as well as odd ones in flight. A few Pied Kingfishers were seen.

At various points, I disturbed waders along the shore. There were at least two Greenshanks (Tringa nebularia) and 4+Redshanks (probably T. totanus totanus). The only difference I could see between these and the British form was that the breast, flanks and back had more noticeable black spots.

I came across a mixed party of plovers on 1 March. There were c. 6 Kentish Plovers* (Charadrius a. alexandrinus) (pretty little chaps these - the distribution of black as well as dark legs and noticeably sandy crown combined with small size make them easy to distinguish), c. 12 Ringed Plovers (C. hiaticula), differing from the British variety in that back and crown seemed darker, white over eye in form of a narrow stripe, note apparently identical - probably the Siberian race tundrae) and about a dozen of an unidentified species. They were a little larger than the Ringed and had a similar white eye-stripe. Legs darkish, general colour olive, very much as a typical Ringed Plover, uniform over whole upperparts; below white except for brownish flush on sides of breast. Bill as normal plover. Their note was a kind of very mellow whistling twitter. Later I was able to identify them as Lesser Sand Plovers* (C. mongolus).

The only other wader near the lake shore was a Common Sandpiper (Actitis hypoleucos). From sedgy pools near the lake, I flushed two Jack Snipes (Lymnocryptes minimus) and two Common Snipes (Gallinago gallinago). The last wader was a Green Sandpiper (Tringa ochropus) from a roadside ditch (identified only by black underwing - no particular shyness or towering behaviour noticed and no note heard.) On 2 March much the same waders and plovers were observed.

Gulls on the lake were Black-headed (species?), some in complete plumage; also about three Yellow-legged Gulls and one Scandinavian Lesser Black-backed Gull.

On 1 March, towards the other shore, were four large white birds (storks?), some pied looking ducks and several probable Great Crested Grebes (Podiceps cristatus). On 3 March, one White Stork* (Ciconia ciconia) landed on the lake. The red of the bill and legs and the black primaries contrasting with the white plumage was noticeable thro’ my binocs. However, in flight, just before alighting, it seemed to have neck drawn in as does a heron.

One wheatear (probably typical [i.e. Northern]) flew from one bush to another in the fields beside the road. There was a flock of about 100 Starlings (Sturnus vulgaris).

Subspecies of [♂][Yellow] Wagtail (Motacilla flava) were plentiful by the road, both on the lake shore and along the ditch. On 1 March, two, seen clearly, had white chins and a white stripe thro’, or partly thro’ and partly over the eye, obviously the typical European Blue-headed race flava. Another had white chin, no white eye-stripe and black behind bill, apparently Ashy-headed (cinereocapilla). Yet another one or two had this appearance only with less intense dark colour behind the bill, probably Grey-headed (thunbergi). Alternatively, these two forms may have both been of the Egyptian [breeding] race pygmaea. However, from the illustration in “Sixty Common Birds of the Nile Delta”, there is no black on the ear coverts of this subspecies. It was not very prominent on those seen. The most probable example of the Egyptian race was one with no white stripe and no black. The blue-gray forehead was flecked with white. On 2 March, several of these possible Egyptian wagtails were singing, with a rather Corn Bunting-like jingle of high-pitched chirps.

Pipits were observed on 1 and 3 March and, on the letter day, identified as Tawny Pipits* (Anthus campestris) by largish size, light sandy or buff-brown back, greyish tinge on head with light eye-stripe, almost completely unspotted and unstreaked underparts, very light sandy-buff, vaguely veined with faint blue-grey. Note: rather like that of a Meadow Pipit only rather “pweest”. With them on 3 March were two Red-throated Pipits* (Anthus rufugulariscervinus]). They greatly resembled Meadow Pipits with heavily spotted underparts but one had a chestnut-red throat extending down sides of breast. The other had apparently no red (winter plumage?)”

Egypt, Kasfareit 107 MU & area: 22-26 Feb 1946

>>Kasfareit was a large RAF camp in the Canal Zone of Egypt for transient personnel awaiting posting to various parts of the Middle East. We slept about 30 men to a billet (hut). As at Heaton Park there was little organized activity, though the NAAFI and cinema gave opportunities to socialize. Click here to visit a website with other views on life at Kasfareit.

I had to visit the medical unit as my glasses were stolen on the train coming from Port Said. I was standing near a door when the train pulled into a station. A local man entered and stood beside me. As the train was moving out of the station, he snatched the glasses from my face and jumped down through the doorway! I had no opportunity to chase him as the train was gathering speed, besides which I could not see very well. The glasses had tortoiseshell frames and were civilian ones that I had purchased in Nottingham before joining up. At Kasfareit camp, the medical unit examined my eyes and immediately provided military glasses with metal frames. The glasses obviously worked well as I was able to resume birdwatching right away.

When my wife recounted this tale to an Egyptian ambassador many years later he asked if I was in RAF uniform. "Yes" she replied. "Well" said the ambassador "what do you expect?" It's true that the British armed forces were an "Army of Occupation" in Egypt as in many other parts of the world in 1946. But I do not think that stealing glasses off the face of a member of those armed forces constituted a gesture carried out to help free Egypt from the occupiers. It was simply an act of opportunistic petty thievery. It taught me to be careful wherever I was in the world, and never happened to me again!  

However, the contrast of the ambassador’s interpretation of this event and mine highlights the difference in attitudes between the occupied and the occupiers. In 1946, as a Brit, I could not conceive that I did not have a perfect right to be on the train in Egypt, wearing His Majesty’s uniform. We had just won the war and defeated the German army in North Africa, we were entitled to occupy parts of Egypt in order to control the Suez Canal and I was a tiny cog in the machine set up to achieve this end. The thief may have been quite unaware of ill feeling towards me because of this and saw me just as an easy mark. But the ambassador had been through the 1956 Suez Crisis, had witnessed the humiliation of Britain and the glorification of Egypt, and felt that, earlier, everyone in Egypt must have viewed the British as oppressors.    

Another memorable incident occurred on the parade ground, where we all assembled each day for a short while to have our presence checked and to hear any announcements. I brought my binoculars with me and rather rashly put them to use observing the Black Kites ("shite-hawks" as they were called) wheeling overhead. The sergeant in charge of the parade shouted at me "WHAT DO YOU THINK THIS IS? A HOLIDAY CAMP!" Actually, I was amazed at his forbearance as he took no further action - he could have put me on a charge.  >>>

“I found that White Wagtails (Motacilla alba alba) and House Sparrows the commonest birds in the camp [presumably after the Black Kites]. In addition there were three Palm [Laughing] Doves* (Streptopelia senegalensis aegyptiaca), a new species to me [and one that would become familiar in many parts of Africa]. I located two nesting sites of this bird on ledges in huts. Neither had eggs though a bird sat tight on one. I also noted a Black Redstart* (Phoenicurus ochurus gibraltariensis) on several occasions in the same part of the camp. It was rather retiring and did not give me much chance to observe it, always vanishing behind a wall or a building.

After tiffin [lunch] on 23 February I took a walk for a few miles in the desert to the SW. Here I saw 6-10 Brown-necked Ravens and several Crested Larks* (Galerida cristata nigricans). There was also a wheatear of indeterminate species, resembling the Northern Wheatear in winter plumage but with a good deal more black on the tail.”

Egypt, Port Said to Kasfareit: 22 Feb 1946

Life list now 167 species

>>Egypt

Port Said is the port on the Mediterranean Sea at the northern end of the Suez Canal and Suez is the port at the southern end. Arrival in Port Said was my introduction to Africa, and the start of a 64-year long love affair with that continent (though I did not know it then).

"Entered the harbour about 0900, disembarked at 1300, left by train for Kasfareit (c. 25 miles north of Suez) at 1630, arriving there after dark (2030).>>>

In the sea and Port Said harbour were mostly gulls, early on, mainly Lesser Black-backed Gulls (Larus fuscus) of two or three subspecies: Scandinavian, Siberian and British. I found it difficult to decide upon the exact identity of these birds. Only a very few had wing-coverts, mantle and primaries of the same colour exactly. These were obviously of the Scandinavian form. Many, which, at first sight, seemed to be of this variety, upon closer inspection and at certain angles, were seen to have a slight but quite noticeable difference between the shade of their wing tips and other dark parts of their plumage. I took these to be the Siberian form. A good number, too, were pretty obviously different and presumably of the British subspecies. The mantle and coverts were approx. half-way between the shade of the dark form and that of the Yellow-legged Gull. Approx proportions were Siberian 70%, British 25%, Scandinavian 5%. Herring Gulls were much more numerous in the harbour than outside.

An unidentified bird flew around the ship several times and settled on the sea (same bird?) The bird in flight was white beneath and black (or very dark) above with a white wing bar and resembled a wader of Redshank size. The floating bird was black or very dark above and probably on the head, and white below.

From the boat I saw many pigeons (domesticated) in flight and some Egyptian House Sparrows (P. d. niloticus).

I took down a detailed description of the Egyptian Black Kite* as, at the time, I could not identify it. However, since then I have had access to reference books and find it to be Milvus migrans aegyptius. It is very numerous indeed over all areas of habitation in Egypt and I will omit further unneccessary references to it.

Two or three [Barn] Swallows of unknown subspecies (I do not even know if underparts were white or red but probably the former) flew over us in the train and at several other places I saw a few.

One or two Kestrels (or Lesser Kestrels) were seen near Port Said.

Over Port Said were plenty of Hooded Crows (C. corone pallescens/sardonnis). Later, at Kasfereit, there were more of these as well as Brown-necked Ravens* (Corvus [corax] ruficollis). These greatly resembled Carrion Crows at any distance when the brown was not visible.

There were great numbers of waders in various spots on the mud beside the railway line. Most seemed Redhanks or Greenshanks or possibly godwits and some smaller types as well. However, the train was going too fast and rocking considerably, the sun was in my eyes, and I could not be sure of a single species. c. 500 ducks were put up by the train but, again, at too great a range for me. I saw one Pied Kingfisher* (Ceryl rudis) on the wires beside the line.

A chap pointed out several (c. 12) birds in a palm tree. At first I thought they were white pigeons but the, through my binocs, saw long pointed yellow bills and a general heron-like appearance, particularly of one in flight. They were apparently Buff-backed Herons [Cattle Egrets*] (Ardeola ibis)."

English Channel, France & Mediterranean: 15-21 Feb 1946

>>Mediterranean Sea:
18 - 21 February 1946


We were heading for Port Said in Egypt and passed Stromboli and through the Straits of Messina on 19 February. Watching from the deck of the Orbita I saw mainly gulls of the same species as at Toulon and a few far-off ducks. The only land birds were a Lapwing and apparent Skylark. >>>

>>France, Toulon
17 February 1946

"Arrived here c. 0600, boarded R.M.S. Orbita in harbour and sailed about 1600." R.M.S. signifies "Royal Mail Ship". This was before the days of regular airmail: most letters were sent by "surface mail" and took much longer to reach their destination.>>>

"In town, House Sparrows only identified.

In harbour I saw my first Yellow-legged [Herring] Gulls* (Larus argentatus cachinans [= L. michahellis]). These were plentiful and nearly all adults. They were distinguished by darker mantle than Herring Gulls (L. a. a.) (appearing almost as dark as British Lesser Black-backed Gulls (L. fuscus graellsii) in some lights and at certain angles) and very yellow or orange-yellow legs (very good feature this). No noticeable markings on crown or nape.

Also plentiful were my first Mediterranean [Black-headed] Gulls* (L. melanocephalus). Adults were similar to the typical species (L. ridibundus) but apparently had less white in the leading edge of the wing - immatures were seen to have darker trailing edge. Some adults had almost black hoods.

Yellow-legged Gulls followed us all day but Mediterranean Gulls for only a few miles from port."
Life-list now 164 species.

>>France, Dieppe   A  to Toulon   D  via Limoges   B  and Toulouse  C 
16 February 1946


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This was my first experience of a foreign country. Though we were mostly kept from direct contact with French people, I noticed that many airmen were flogging (bartering) their blankets out of the train windows. It was only about a year since the Germans had been driven from France and presumably good quality blankets were in short supply.

All the observations reported on this day were from a moving train. With the shaking, speed and glass, conditions were far from ideal.

From this date, though most birds were still familiar, some were new and I began to find birds I could not immediately identify. The field guide (not a term in use then) I had with me was a book on British birds, though I was able to supplement it later with other books. However, some species remained unidentified till I returned to England and could consult top reference works at the Natural History Museum in London. A few species remain unidentified to this day! I was always careful to note down a description of such species and would be grateful for opinions on their identity.

Also I would appreciate opinions on the route the train took in northern France as I am unable to locate on any map four of the towns mentioned below: Neuilly Pailaux, St Sebastian, Forgeville & Russac.

“By train all day from Neuilly Pailaux to Bram (dawn to dusk) via Limoges, Toulouse.>>>

Magpie, principal species. Present all areas except hills of moderate height. Numbers seen between various towns as follows: Dieppe - 39 - St Sebastian - 10 - Forgeville - 40 - Russac - 27 - Cahors - 62 - Toulouse - 83 - Bram [20 km W Carcassonne]. The first leg (to St S.) was short in daylight and distribution pretty intense (country flatish). Then smaller numbers (particularly Limoges to Cahors where hills highest). Thickest distribution, Toulouse - Bram (short distance), parties of c. 11 and c. 12 (country flat and low). Particularly in the south, pairs noticeable.

On all types of ground and throughout the day, Rooks (plenty) and some Jackdaws, were seen. Several Jays were spotted in the south. They differed visibly from the British form and were Continental Jays (G. g. glandarius). Noticeable differences were larger, more rufous and brighter appearance. White wing-bar and rump most noticeable as were black wing and tail. Under tail white. No particular blue in wing or mark on face noticed though possibly dark eye stripe.

At various points other species seen were Green Woodpeckers (most frequent in S), Chaffinches (Continental - f.c.c.), Skylarks and a few Blackbirds and House Sparrows.

Harriers (?) were seen: one probable ♀Hen Harrier though too far off to be certain, hunting over farm and woodland near Dieppe. Another, not Hen, near Toulouse. Back and wings seemed to have a blueish tinge though brown tipped, rather small.

In the hills were several buzzards or kites, five being visible at once on one occasion. One seemed to have black wing tips but little detail was visible and most seemed uniform dark brown.

Other species noted: Fieldfares (or Missel Thrushes), a probable Wood-Lark (by tail) near St. Sebastian and a Great Tit heard singing.”

England to France: 4-15 Feb 1946

>>Abroad at last!
English Channel: 15 Feb 1946 

Life list now 162 species

“Sailed across from Newhaven  A  to Dieppe  B  0620 to 1130"


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Did not sail from Dover so missed the opportunity to see a twitcher's delight, forecast in this song of 1942 [Bluebirds are unknown in England, though apparently the American song writer was unaware of that].>>>


"In the Channel, chiefly gulls to be seen. Near both shores, mainly Black-headed with one up to c 5 miles from France. Further out, principally Common with some Herring and a few Great Black-backed.

Several times, mostly on the E side, saw [Northern] Gannets* singly or in parties of up to 4. More Guillemots, up to 6 together, were identified. They seemed to be in two stages of plumage which I put down as summer and winter. Also seen were 2 or 3 Razorbills* and 1 [Atlantic] Puffin*. About 8+ miles east of Newhaven, 2 Starlings in flight (c. west) and another c. 5 miles from France. Skylarks on 3 or 4 occasions at different spots and one (domesticated?) pigeon circled the ship c 3 miles from Dieppe."

2 or 3 miles off Dieppe, a party of c. 15 ducks, just over half were Pintail, the rest Mallard. A lone duck with a very long tail and most "un-Pintail"-like appearance was seen a c. 5 miles from France, and another two with almost complete white underparts convinced me they were male Long-tailed Ducks*.

Left Dieppe by train at c 1850 for Toulon. On a small flooded pit just west of Dieppe were several waterfowl. About half (c. 40) seemed Coot, the others probably Tufted Ducks and/or Goldeneye as they were very pied. Wigeon also spotted in flight. Other birds seen from the train, 2 Magpies, several Rooks, c.80 Jackdaws and c. 80 Lapwings.
Weather: very calm and mild to cool, cloudy nearly all day but no precip.”

>>14 Feb 1946

By train to Newhaven on the south coast of England
The RAF does not tell you what its plans for you are! From Manchester  A  to Newhaven  B  was a good leap southwards and in front was the English Channel, presumably to be crossed next. >>>


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“In Newhaven harbour were Black-headed, Common and Herring Gulls. Near the harbour mouth in the sea and on the beach, 2 Common Guillemots. A probable male Pintail flew near there too.”

>>England, Heaton Park, Manchester:
4-13 Feb 1946

Still waiting with little to do, so I spent much of my time birdwatching.>>>

“Observed a very white Blackbird in shrubbery in the park on 4 Feb. I had little chance to view it closely but saw a greyish head (crown) and yellow bill. A friend (Roland Kern) with me said he saw "black tips". Identified it by typical note. Frequently looked round the reservoir in the Park and spotted Mallards, Tufted Ducks and Pochard as well as Black-headed, Herring and Common Gulls. Bodies of two of the latter were found with heads ripped off, probably by a Peregrine Falcon. On 11 Feb, visited Greenfield and walked on the moors. Only bird, Red Grouse.”

Beginnings

>>England, Heaton Park, Manchester, 3 Feb 1946

Heaton Park was a large camp for RAF personnel awaiting posting overseas, where I was stationed for about ten days. I had said goodbye to my family during my embarkation leave and was sustained, like many others, by the popular songs that promised reunion in better times. My best-loved singer was Vera Lynn. I had been called up (drafted) into the Royal Air Force (RAF) the previous November. I knew that I was going to the Middle East but had no idea where or what adventures awaited. I had never left England previously.

Apart from meals and parades for roll call, the main activity was waiting, so I fitted in occasional periods of my hobby. On this day I recorded:

“Walked to a sewage farm about 2-3 miles W of park. Saw almost nothing - c. 8 Moorhens feeding on one tank and a probable wader of Dunlin-Knot size at a great distance elsewhere."

It was not unusual for me to visit a sewage farm. My father had introduced me to birdwatching at about the age of ten and it had been my hobby since. Surprisingly, sewage farms are great places for birdwatching! The previous spring, I had spent a lot of time on Nottingham sewage farm, using my first pair of binoculars (8x30), and witnessed the first known breeding in the British Isles of Black-winged Stilts. In April 1945 the retreating German Army blew up the Zuider Zee sea-wall and flooded large parts of the Netherlands. Stilts normally bred there but were unable to do so because of the depth of water and some appeared across the North Sea on 13 May 1945. They stayed through the summer and successfully reared young.

Extract from British Birds 1945

I was an 18 year old student at University College Nottingham, taking an accelerated course in Engineering. I was dazzled by the exciting ornithological event that unfolded before my eyes, though completely unaware of the tragic situation across the North Sea that gave rise to the remarkable visit. Playing a part in an event of national prominence, gave me confidence as a birdwatcher and helped confirm it as my life interest.

Apart from their rarity in England, Black-winged Stilts are remarkable looking birds and I spent a lot of my time in the spring of 1945 observing them. I was not to know then that this would lead to the opportunity to see many more of them in the future, as well as other wonders. Visits to the sewage farm left me with less time to prepare for imminent examinations at the end of my first university year. I failed some of these exams in June 1945 and, even though the war finished two months later, was called up. Thus was launched the adventure described in this blog.>>>